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For many westerners, pad Thai—or, more accurately, kway teow pad Thai (stir- fried rice noodles Thai- style)—symbolizes Thai cooking, thanks in large part to the Thai government’s ongoing efforts to introduce the country’s food to the rest of the world. The campaign has been resoundingly successful: according to the Web site www. Thai restaurants (many bearing the name Pad Thai) operated worldwide in 2. As a result, pad Thai is served everywhere from Moscow to Toronto to Wichita. Some diet plans modify the dish for the calorie- and fat- conscious, while the foodservice industry mass- markets pad Thai for the heat- and- serve generation. Pad Thai stars in at least 2. Google entries and even merits its own definition in the Random House Unabridged Dictionary (2. A Thai dish of stir- fried rice noodles, fish sauce and other seasonings, usually tofu, shrimp, bean sprouts, and peanuts.”If Westerners believe that pad Thai symbolizes Thai cooking, many Thais agree. That’s true all over the world—except in Thailand.”1 Because pad Thai is a specialty dish in Thailand, many restaurants choose not to compete with the street- food vendors, who make and serve only pad Thai all day long and thus have perfected the recipe. The Origins of Pad Thai. Pad Thai is really nothing more than a regular noodle dish, one that is not even native to Thailand. Its full name, kway teow pad Thai, hints at its possible Chinese origins; kway teow, in Chinese, refers to rice noodles. It is likely that some early version of the dish came to Thailand with settlers crossing from southern China, who brought their own recipe for fried rice noodles. Certainly the cooking style— stir- frying—is Chinese, and most food historians credit the Chinese with the invention of noodles. And, as Chombhala Chareonying, former Minister- Counsellor at the Royal Thai Embassy in Washington, D. C., points out, Thai food is basically Indo- Chinese in origin. The cooked meats and vegetables in pad Thai resemble dishes prepared by the Cantonese and Tae Chiew (Chao Zhou in Mandarin) from China’s eastern Guangdong province. Nevertheless, the flavors and textures are pure Thai. If the Chinese migration theory holds, Thai ancestors may be the Chinese T’ai (phonetically, “Dai”) people who migrated from southwest China in what is now the Yunnan province. In fact, today’s Thai can find many similarities in language, dress, and cooking with the Chinese T’ai. T’ai is the largest ethnic minority there still.” Nitya Pibulsonggram’s father, Prime Minister Pibulsonggram (also know as Field Marshall Plaek Pibulsonggram, or Phibun) is universally credited with having popularized today’s pad Thai recipe by codifying, and perhaps even creating, it. Above: Nongkran Daks preparing Pad Thai. Photograph by Lawrence Daks . For starters, in 1. Siam to Thailand, or “Land of the Free.” (“Besides, it would not sound right to call the dish pad Siamese, would it?” quips his son.)But Phibun also had other objectives, maintains Penny Van Esterik, a nutritional anthropologist specializing in Southeast Asian cultures. In her book Materializing Thailand, Van Esterik writes that “. His series of decrees from 1. Thai economy, to instill national image and pride—and to improve the national diet. Popularizing a noodle dish was one means to that end.”2 Why these particular noodles? They differed from the then- popular Chinese dishes of either wet or dry noodles. Van Esterik considers pad Thai a clear culinary invention.“Phibun was not being anti- Chinese,” says Pibulsonggram. My parents actually made pad Thai popular during the War . Perhaps a family cook? However, no formal dietary study of pad Thai has ever been conducted. The Prime Minister found other sound health reasons for promoting this cooked dish. There were numerous diseases, and the people were afraid.” By promoting a steaming hot noodle dish cooked in clean pans, the Prime Minister simultaneously was promoting sanitary foods and cooking conditions (although, his son notes, the bean sprouts used as a garnish are practically raw). Phibun further urged Thais to include pad Thai in their meal planning to help Thai farmers and to keep money circulating in the economy. It was interesting the way he presented the dish to the people,” Pibulsonggram says, adding that his father also encouraged frugality on another level: he wanted Thais to start their own kitchen gardens and grow their own vegetables. To help popularize the new noodle dish, the government supplied people with a basic recipe for pad Thai, then encouraged vendors to make use of wheeled noodle carts—like mobile cook stalls equipped with a heat source and compartments to hold ingredients and cooking utensils—to sell the dish on Bangkok’s streets. Because the carts could move easily, pad Thai became a convenience food. It may be the original fast food in Thailand, Pibulsonggram notes. The dish became a lunchtime favorite, a Thai stir- fry that provided an alternative to a bowl of Chinese noodles. From Bangkok’s city streets the recipe spread to rural villages, where locals enjoyed the dish. Chef Nongkran Daks of Thai Basil restaurant in Chantilly, Virginia, recalls growing up in a southern Thai village, where her big treat was to buy a very spicy pad Thai from a local vendor, who wrapped the serving up in banana leaves and newspaper and tied it with a string for easy carrying. It is only in their particular combination that the sum of the parts equals the finished product that has captured the world’s gastronomic fancy. To Thais, of course, the explanation lies in pad Thai’s balance of flavors and textures—the three primary Thai flavors of salty, sour, and sweet, and a fourth, spicy, added to taste in the form of chilies. The bean sprouts and peanuts add a desirable, though subtle, crunch, a foil for the soft rice noodles and chewy prawns. A successful Thai cook keeps this balance in mind when composing a recipe or a full menu of complementary flavors and textures. Pad Thai succeeds on every count, explains Chombhala Chareonying. Pad Thai suits Western palates “because it is not spicy. Many Europeans and Americans like it because it has every taste: sour, sweet, and salty. But what really fascinates Van Esterik as an anthropologist is the fact that pad Thai is a condensed symbol or summary of all Thai noodles in particular, and of the cuisine in general. Much like today’s recipe, the original configuration of pad Thai included meat such as shrimp, pork, or chicken; tamarind; palm sugar; fish sauce; eggs; dried shrimp; garlic; tofu; salted radish; peanuts; slender rice noodles; and bean sprouts. These ingredients and the manner of preparing the dish qualified it as “new” to some, particularly since the noodles were not boiled but pad, or stir- fried, explains Pibulsonggram.“Pad Thai is one basic recipe, with no specific quantities of ingredients,” agrees Robert Halliday of Bangkok, the former restaurant critic for the Bangkok Post. In old Thai cookbooks there is no such thing as quantity. That’s why you never get the same dish.” Bangkok natives often garnish the dish with something crisp, like raw sour fruit or raw mango, or even sour star fruit, banana blossoms, or another small, very sour fruit called madan, he says. But one element of pad Thai is a constant: the medium- slender dried rice noodles. Cooks can choose between sen lek or the chewier sen chan noodles from the Chantaburi region. For pad Thai aficionados like Halliday, the sen chan noodles are preferable for their sturdier mouthfeel. Hunting for the best pad Thai in Bangkok may be an eternal quest. Many Thais agree that the no- name noodle stand by the Ghost Gate in the old part of the city was once immensely popular. The treat was to get the pad Thai. Many street vendors park their carts along the Soi Trok Kaptan that runs parallel to the Chao Phraya River, near the popular tourist hotels. One in particular sets up his stand in the evening near the Wat Leap. Most good Bangkok restaurants, even hotel coffee shops, offer the dish, and some of these versions are exceptional. They become artists, specialists.”As Thai food goes truly global, with an anticipated twenty thousand Thai restaurants in operation overseas by 2. Thai fanciers can expect that their favorite dish might well become as ubiquitous as the Mexican taco or Italian spaghetti. But diners should be wary of pad Thai wannabes who carelessly break all the rules. One Internet recipe, for example, calls for using oyster sauce; others call for such oddball (and some non- Thai) ingredients as snow peas, sweet green and red peppers, soy sauce, teriyaki sauce, maple syrup, almond or peanut butter, curry powder, shredded coconut, olive oil, spaghetti or linguine, and ketchup. Apparently one New York City restaurant even used to serve something called “pad Thai spring rolls.”As long as cooks and noodle packagers leave well enough alone, Thailand’s most recognizable dish will continue to attract Western converts to Asia’s hottest cuisine—and pad Thai will maintain its place as the country’s premier noodle dish. After all, as Foreign Minister Nitya points out, “Pad Thai is familiar to look at and it has that distinctive taste—fresh, lemony, hot—and it looks very nutritious . Like the hamburger, everything is on it with all the toppings.”notes. All interviews for this article were conducted either in person, by phone, or by e- mail throughout 2. Penny Van Esterik, Materializing Thailand (New York: Berg, 2. This prediction is by Yuthasak Suphasorn, deputy director of the National Food Institute, as quoted in the Bangkok Post in late 2. See www. bangkokpost. Nongkran Daks’s Kway Teow Pad Thai. News 1. 2 Westchester - News, Traffic & Weather. Do you have a story idea you'd like to pass on to News 1. Send us tips and breaking news photos here, or call our breaking news hotline at 9.
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